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Special foods 丨豫式黃河鯉魚

2018-09-14 09:20:46

  Yellow River Carp is not only a speciality of Henan Province, but also a famous “business card” of Kaifeng Youyixin Restaurant, Awu Yellow River Carp Restaurant, and Zhengzhou Yufengyuan Restaurant.

  黃河鯉魚是咱河南的一道招牌菜,也是開封又一新飯店、阿五黃河大鯉魚、鄭州裕豐源等飯店響當當的名片。每家飯店又都有自己對黃河鯉魚的獨到理解,正如獨孤九劍一般,大劍無鋒、大巧不工,無招勝有招世。

  

 

  Carp has always been revered as the "chief of all fishes" in China. The Northern Song Dynasty also served carp as the "best among all dishes." The carp in the Yellow River is called "Golden Carp of the Yellow River" for its uniqueness. According to the ancient documents, “The Yellow River carp in Henan Province is fresh, fat and tender, which can be seen as delicacies.” In Kaifeng and even the whole Central Plains, a well-known dish called “Braised Yellow River Carp Covered with Baked Noodles” once became the "best among all dishes."

  鯉魚在我國歷來被尊為“諸魚之長”。北宋更是奉鯉魚為“食品上味”。黃河中的鯉魚,因其獨特之處,世稱“金色黃河大鯉魚”。古籍稱:“豫省黃河之鯉,干鮮肥嫩可稱珍品”。而開封乃至中原地區,更因一道舉世聞名的“糖醋軟熘鯉魚”而一度成為“食品上味”。

  

 

  During the transition from the Northern Song Dynasty to the Southern Song Dynasty, a large number of residents followed the royal family to Hangzhou from Kaifeng, becoming “Zhejiang drifters” at that time. As the environment changes, so do the ingredients. The Yellow River carp is sweet while the West Lake carp's muddy flavor is heavier, so it was then changed to the grass fish. Southerners do not like sweet taste in fish, so it was changed again. With many changes, another famous dish was finally created, called West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy.

  從北宋到南宋的更迭中,大批汴京的居民跟著皇室來到杭州,成為當時的“浙漂”,隨著環境的變化,食材也有所不同,黃河鯉魚甜,西湖鯉魚的泥腥味較重,于是改為草魚,不喜歡魚中有甜味兒,那就再改,經過多次調整,后來又成就了一道名菜——西湖醋魚。

  

 

  The cooking method that is more familiar to the people in Henan Province is called “braised carp with baked noodles.” The baked noodles is also called the fine noodles. The tender and delicious carp with red color, together with the fluffy and crispy baked noodles, does reflect the efforts that our ancestors in Henan Province have made concerning diet.

  咱河南老百姓更熟悉的黃河鯉魚做法則是“鯉魚焙面”,焙面也稱龍須面。色澤棗紅,軟嫩鮮香的鯉魚再加上蓬松酥脆的焙面結合在一起,足可見咱們河南老祖宗在吃上下了一番真功夫。

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